Know your profit before you swing a hammer.
Fund it with none of your own money — hard money for the deal, a private/gap lender for the rest — then watch the real tradeoff: every month you hold, holding costs and your lenders’ interest eat the profit. Find the deal that truly pencils.
Pre-filled with a sample deal. Change anything.
Closing covers both sides when you pay the seller’s side too. Set the listing commission you’re covering on MLS deals — leave at 0 for off-market.
Fees you pay to acquire — a finder/acquisition fee and any wholesaler’s assignment fee. Both are costs on this deal; your gap lender can cover them too.
Recent comparable sales — usually 3. Address, sold price, and square footage. Feeds page 2 of the lender package.
Toggle each lender on or off — run hard money only, private/gap only, both, or turn both off for an all-cash buy.
Hard money (1st lien)
Many hard-money lenders charge a fee each time you pull a rehab draw. Most rehabs run 3–6 draws.
Interest is figured on the full rehab from closing — the conservative case. In practice your lender holds the rehab back and you draw it in phases (or one draw at the end), so your real interest usually runs a bit less.
Private / gap money (2nd) — no money down
Hard money funds most of purchase + rehab; your private/gap lender covers the rest — closing, fees, holding, interest — so none of your own cash goes in. Gap is interest-only.
Your numbers on one branded page. One email also unlocks the hard money package, the gap lender package, and the project summary further down.
One more, only so I can actually be useful. What do you have, and what do you need?
This is the cash the deal needs. Private money can cover it — tap “Cover 100%” to set the gap on the left and bring none of your own.
Drag the gap loan below and watch the two lines move apart.
Drag your timeline below. Your profit slips a little each month — and your lenders’ cut keeps climbing.
Cash buys the most profit; leverage buys the best return on your money. The no-money-down row is how most pros actually run it. Live on the deal above.
The honest test of a flip: does it still survive when the market cools or the rehab runs over? Profit at each outcome — on your current timeline.
| Outcome | Sale price | Net profit | Margin |
|---|
A fix and flip is buying a house that needs work, repairing it, and selling it for more than everything cost you. Everything — purchase, closing, rehab, the interest on your money, and the cost of selling. Most people count the first two and get surprised by the rest.
The money is made on the buy. If you pay too much going in, no rehab budget and no hot market fixes it. That’s why the purchase price is the first number in the calculator and every other number flows from it.
Every flip I run goes through the same six questions. The Fix & Flip Profit Visualizer™ above walks you through all of them and returns a verdict instead of a wall of numbers:
A quick screen that says your all-in cost shouldn’t go above 70% of the after-repair value, minus the rehab. It’s a first-pass filter, not an answer. It ignores your holding time and what your money costs, which is why the calculator runs the 70% check and the full profit math side by side.
Many investors want their net profit to land somewhere around 10–20% of the sale price, but the right number depends on your market, your timeline, and how much of your own cash is in the deal. The useful question isn’t a benchmark — it’s whether this specific deal clears your own threshold after every cost.
It’s possible when hard money covers most of the purchase and rehab and a private or gap lender covers the rest — closing, fees, and holding. You’re paying for that in interest and points, and the deal has to be strong enough to carry two lenders. The calculator lets you toggle both on and see exactly what the money costs.
Most run somewhere between three and nine months from closing to closing, depending on the scope of work and how fast the property sells. Time is the quiet killer: every extra month adds holding costs and interest, so drag the timeline slider and watch what a delay actually costs you.
That’s the test worth running before you buy. A flip that only works at full ARV isn’t a flip, it’s a bet. The stress test above shows your profit at lower sale prices so you can see how much room the deal actually has.
This is one tool from the full system — the same spreadsheets I use to underwrite fix & flips, rentals, Airbnb, and creative-finance deals.
InvestorBuilt: Deal Analyzer puts all three calculators in your pocket. PDF exports, instant verdicts, and it works offline, even standing in a house with no signal.
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