The settlement statement you should see before you sign the listing agreement — not on closing day.
You’ve decided you might sell. Before you call an agent or sign anything, this shows you the one number nobody hands you straight — the money that actually lands in your pocket after everything comes out. Fill in what you know. Watch it add up, line by line. No guessing, no rosy math.
Why I built this: I buy houses. That's the conflict of interest, stated up front. It's also exactly why I'd rather you see the real numbers than take anyone's offer — mine included — without them. This tool can and will tell you to list traditionally. If it couldn't, it would just be a pitch with extra steps.
A The property
Start with what an agent would put on the sign.
Optional. Shows what sellers in your market are actually giving up right now.
Realistic sale priceAfter the price cut it takes to actually sell$0
The market's cut$0
Commission?What you pay the real estate agents out of the sale. Often around 5–6% total, but it’s always negotiable — there is no fixed rate.$0
Closing costs, title, escrow?The paperwork costs of transferring the home — title search, title insurance, and the neutral third party (escrow) that holds the money until everything is signed. Usually 1–2% of the price.$0
?A state tax on transferring the deed to the buyer, paid at closing. In most states the seller pays it. Rates vary by state — Florida is about 0.70%, North Carolina about 0.20%, and some states have none at all.$0
Buyer concessions?Money you agree to give back to the buyer — toward their closing costs or repairs — to get the deal done. Nearly half of sellers are paying these right now.$0
Your cost to get there$0
Repairs before listing$0
Holding costs?Everything you keep paying while the home sits unsold — mortgage, taxes, insurance, utilities, HOA, lawn care. The longer it takes to sell, the more this grows. This is the cost most calculators ignore.while it's on the market$0
Payoff — not just your balance?Your payoff is what it truly costs to close out your loan on the day you sell: your balance plus interest since your last payment, plus small release fees. It’s almost always a little more than the balance printed on your statement.$0
Mortgage balance$0
Past-due payments$0
Late fees + lender attorney costs$0
Other liens$0
Net to you at closing — your walk-away money
$0
Days until you see money
0
True cost to sell
0%
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These are careful estimates, not a guarantee — built so you know what the closing table looks like before anyone walks you through it. Your exact payoff, taxes, and fees come from your lender, your title company, and a real estate attorney. Confirm the real numbers there before you decide anything.
So what are your actual options?
You can name the price, or you can name the terms. Not both.
The real lever isn't the interest rate. It's how much cash you need on the day you hand over the keys. The more you need up front, the less anyone can pay you. Move the slider to your honest answer.
Just need out cleanEnough to moveMax cash today
$0
cash you say you need at closing
List it on the market
An agent lists it, a financed buyer shows up, you wait, you pay for all of it, you close.
Realistic sale price$0
Everything it costs you$0
You walk with$0
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Take a cash offer
Sells in any condition, no commission, no concessions, no holding, closes in ~2 weeks. You pay for that with price.
A cash buyer offers about$0
− your mortgage payoff$0
You walk with$0
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Sell on terms
A buyer takes over the payments and catches up the arrears, or you carry the note. No commission, no repairs, no waiting. You get paid over time instead of all at once.
Ceiling — if they paid full asking$0
− payoff they cover$0
Best case, not a quote$0
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Why there's no payment number here. Because I'd have to guess, and guessing is how sellers get hurt. What the payments look like depends on your payoff, your arrears, your timeline and what you need to walk out with. This tool's job is to tell you which doors are even open. The number behind the door is a conversation, not a calculator.
And the honest catch: money later is worth less than money today. That's not a trick — it's the entire reason a terms deal can pay full price and a cash deal can't. You're choosing which one is worth more to you. The risks depend on which structure you're actually in. If a buyer takes over an existing mortgage — a subject-to — that loan has a due-on-sale clause, and the loan stays in your name. If instead you own the house outright and carry the note yourself, there's no lender and no due-on-sale clause at all — but you become the bank, with the default risk that comes with it, and Dodd-Frank and SAFE Act rules apply when you finance an owner-occupant. Different structures, different dangers. All of them need a real estate attorney, not a website.
Do these three things before you sign anything
Call your lender and ask for a written payoff statement. Not your balance. The payoff, good through a date. It's free, it takes one phone call, and it's the only number in this entire tool that isn't an estimate.
Ask your agent what the last three homes in your condition actually closed for — not what they listed for. List price is an opinion. Closed price is a fact.
Get one written repair bid on anything flagged red above. If a lender won't fund the house, the buyer pool you're being marketed to doesn't exist.
Want this as a one-page net sheet?
I'll send you your numbers as a PDF you can put in front of your agent, your lender or your family — plus the questions to ask before you list. No pitch, no drip campaign you can't get out of.